Sunday 24 January 2010

TOP OF THE CROPS

extreme silhouettes at the a/w 10 menswear shows

From Prada's mid-riff baring jumpers at to the extra-long shirting on display at Raf Simons, runways were awash with style statements that require more than a little masculine swagger to pull them off. Over at Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche showed trousers which were cropped very short and left baggy in the crotch. A good look? Not really. And far less likely to catch on than the era-defining, ultra-skinny shape that Van Assche's predecessor Hedi Slimane championed, but at least it's a sign than the reign of super-tight trousers could soon be over.



Sunday 10 January 2010

BIJOUX BLOKE

statement jewellery for men? what a jolly good idea


At a time when menswear is becoming increasingly safe and utilitarian (i.e. exceedingly dull) it's heartening to see boundary-pushing designs that are still masculine and wearable. Austrian designer Florian Ladstaetter's super-cool rope necklaces (available from oki-ni.com) manage to be all of these things with some aplomb. Made from woven silk with metal and leather links they confidently call time on the idea that a man wearing jewellery isn't a good look.



Saturday 9 January 2010

SCENTS OF ADVENTURE

discover francis kurkdjian's olfactory innovations


"Being a perfumer is about capturing beautiful moments in life like the taste of chocolate cake or the smell of a baby's neck," says Francis Kurdjian in soothing gallic tones, "There's no such thing as the ultimate fragrance because each of us can be touched by something different." Having spent the last 14 years concocting blockbuster fragrances for the likes of Christian Dior, Guerlain and Jean Paul Gaultier's (including le male - see blog entry below!) the renowned Parisian nose has recently launched a covetable range under his own name.


As well as rarified scents for the body, there are a number of more unusual offerings including delicately perfumed laundry washes, scented leather bracelets and incense paper that burns rapidly (45 seconds) but lingers on the air for up to 2 hours. "It's a lifestyle brand that's based around scent," says the olfactory Wunderkind who heads up Maison Francis Kurkdjian, "You can wear the cologne or a chic piece of jewelry, perfume your clothes with the laundry wash, refresh the air with a room spray or create an intimate atmosphere by burning a candle."

While surrounding yourself in a permanent fug of Kurkdjian's making is a desirable proposition, the most transient and whimsical product from range is also the most enchanting; Bubbles which a waft of pear, mint or cut herbs when they burst.



"I'm a big kid so i wanted to create something for them, but not a fragrance because I think they have their own unique, lovely smell," explains Francis who staged an 'olfactory installation' in the gardens of the Chateau Versailles four years ago by releasing thousands of bubbles scented with the perfume worn by Marie Antoinette. He's clearly pleased to be able to bring a small taste of such extreme decadence to the masses - the bubbles sell for just £15. "For me, luxury is not about price. It's about dreaming."

Maison Francis Kurkdjian (franciskurkdjian.com) is available exclusively from Liberty (liberty.co.uk). Prices from £15 - £125.